• 63% say “I love you” at least once daily to their pet.
• 78% talk to their pet in different voice.
• 90% would not date someone who wasn’t fond of their pet.
• 59% celebrate their pet’s birthday. Of these, 38% give wrapped gifts.
• 83% refer to themselves as their pet’s mom or dad.
• 68% travel with their pet.
• 36% have named someone as the future guardian of their pet.
• 46% have sent a greeting card “from the dog or cat.”
• 52% are better at remembering the names of neighbor pets than human neighbors.

Style is hard to define, but one thing is certain: All of us want our dog to have it. Including Keith Allison. “To me, style is subjective,” he says. “Your idea of style may be different than mine, but when it comes to retrievers, a stylish dog to me is one that’s right on the edge, but under control. Typically, that dog is very focused on its work. It’s running hard, it’s putting out 100 percent effort, it’s persistent when it gets to the area where the bird is . . . and it’s confident. A confident dog is typically a very stylish dog.”

The confidence Allison speaks so highly of is systematically developed in his training program. Allison and his partners, Johnny Kinzey and Derek Randle, own War Eagle Retrievers, a kennel in, among other locations, Pea Ridge, Arkansas. Several years ago, the three young men tired of the 9 to 5 world (Allison was a physical therapist, Randle a graphic designer, and Kinzey worked at Gates Rubber), and pooled their talents to form War Eagle. The stars must have aligned that day, for since then the trio has racked up more than 60 titles in AKC, UKC, and NAHRA hunt tests, as well as appearing on ESPN and the Outdoor Channel and in sportsmen’s shows across the South.

Intense desire—a dog that lives to hunt and will do almost anything to complete a retrieve—is determined by genetics, Allison says. But if the dog has the intelligence and the genes, everything else is up to the trainer. And what trainers need to do, he says, is give their dog the experience it needs to develop its potential.

Still, no dog is ready for polish until it has thoroughly grasped the fundamentals. Typically, Allison says, that means beginning with a started dog, one that has been collar-conditioned, trained in basic obedience and force-fetch, and is completing single marks in the field and on water. “The single mark is the key,” Allison says. “To polish it, we take that started dog and go out and really work on those singles—increasing the distance, increasing the challenge, adding more cover, making that single mark more and more challenging—but only as long as the dog is performing at a level every step of the way that is showing that confidence.”

At this stage, Allison and the War Eagle boys use ducks to jazz their dogs and keep their enthusiasm level high. It almost always works. “By doing single marks with birds, we’ll typically build that dog’s confidence up and allow it to really focus on what it’s doing, as opposed to, say, lots of multiple marks, which a dog at that (started) level may not be ready for yet,” he says. “What we’re trying to do is simplify things. We’re trying to simplify the task or the mark or the blind, whatever it is that the dog is lacking style in. And we’re going to keep simplifying things until the dog is showing the confidence we’re looking for, because confidence equals style. Then and only then, we’re going to increase the challenge, but only if the dog has 100 percent confidence in what it’s doing, in what it’s been trained in so far.”

Allison keeps coming back to building confidence because he feels so strongly that it is critical to developing a hard-charging, stylish retriever. But most dogs aren’t born with confidence; it has to be developed. And in some cases, the path of development may short-circuit the process.

“People get eager, and they want to rush through the training,” Allison says. “Human nature gets in the way, and it causes some people to push their dog too fast, too soon. Then what happens is that the dog really doesn’t understand the task that’s in front of it, and it loses confidence in its handler.”

If that is the case, as it sometimes is with dogs trained by inexperienced owners, Allison suggests going back and trying to locate the sticking point. “What is the problem?” he asks. “What parts of the dog’s training aren’t yet stylish? And finally, how could it have been prevented? Again, what it invariably comes down to is simplifying things.”

Once he’s discerned the problem, Allison works with the dog on that particular task until it can perform it reliably. By learning one task thoroughly before moving on to the next, the dog learns to trust itself. Then, when the dog knows what it is doing and is confident of success, a transformation of sorts takes place, and the real retriever, the kind we all want, begins to emerge.

Allison loves that moment. “When I walk to the line and someone throws a bird, I want that dog to sit there and say to itself, ‘Man, I am on auto pilot. I know what I’m supposed to do.’ That tells me that the dog is confident. When the dog knows the drill, when it’s gone through its training a step at a time and knows its obedience and knows what it means when it’s corrected by a collar and knows that it’s supposed to hold a bird in its mouth . . . when it’s got all the yard work down and is able to apply it in a single-mark setting, then it’s going to swim hard to that bird or run hard to that bird because of what we’ve done to build that foundation of confidence.”

And that, according to Allison, is style.

Article by Dave Carty – From DU Magazine

Article Source: Ducks Unlimited Inc.

Ducks Unlimited conserves, restores and manages wetlands and associated habitats for North America‘s waterfowl. These habitats also benefit other wildlife and people. Visit their web site at www.ducks.org to learn more, support their mission or to find more info.

What to do if your dog gets sprayed, quilled, or bitten by a snake

Typically, most of the advice shared in this column has come via the courtesy of pro retriever trainers, who have far more expertise than I will ever be able to match. But on this issue—dealing with altercations between dogs and skunks, snakes, and porcupines—I will match my credentials with anyone.

Call me lucky. My dogs have been skunked and quilled by porcupines more times than I can count, and although my experience with snakes has been limited to one prairie rattler, once was enough.

The best defense is to avoid these animals completely. The unfortunate truth is that you can’t control a dog you can’t see, and your good intentions will last just about as long as it takes your pooch to disappear from sight on a training run. Once your dog has been bitten, sprayed, or quilled, however, your actions will help determine whether that run-in becomes an unpleasant learning experience or a far more serious, and possibly deadly, accident.

SKUNKS

Early this summer, one of my dogs, a young setter, came to a wavering, half-serious point in an alfalfa field. About the time it dawned on me she was not pointing a pheasant, she jumped in and tried to toss the skunk she had cornered into the air—not once, but twice. When I finally got hold of her, her face and chest were coated with a god-awful yellow slime. Since this had happened to me many times before (I once owned a springer that got skunked twice in 45 minutes), I knew what to do. Back home, I mixed up my never-fail skunk deodorant: one quart of hydrogen peroxide, one-quarter cup of baking soda, and a squirt of liquid dish soap. I sponged it on the dog and let it soak in for a few minutes, then rinsed it off. By the time she had dried, 95 percent of the odor was gone.

I would like to take credit for the recipe, but the truth is I discovered it in my hometown paper. Remember those proportions: quart, quarter, squirt. This concoction works much better than tomato juice or anything else I have tried. For really tough spots, a bit of Massengill dabbed on the area and allowed to dry kills most persistent odors for a day or two. Still, no matter what you use, skunk scent will often linger for quite some time on a wet dog.

PORCUPINES

It is hard to imagine that any animal could be such a shuffling, pigeon-toed disaster, but porcupines most assuredly are. In my experience, pointing dogs have the most run-ins with porkies, but in the West, where Labs are used for upland bird hunting as much or more than they’re used for waterfowl, hundreds of retrievers get a face full of quills every year. Some dogs never learn. I recently saw an Associated Press photo of a boxer with 800 quills in its mug. Figure out the vet bill for that one.

The veterinarian is where you should end up, though, if your dog gets stuck with more than a couple dozen quills. So far, I’ve been able to yank quills out of my dogs by myself with forceps or a Leatherman tool, the dog wedged between or under my knees to minimize squirming. I’ve also begun carrying a dowel and tape in my first-aid kit, so that I can insert the dowel and tape it in the dog’s mouth in order to keep its mouth open when I am removing quills from its tongue or gums. Then, I simply get a good grip on a quill and pull it out, one quill at a time.

However, a dog that has taken a serious hit, or that has quills embedded in its throat or in or around its eyes, needs a vet. En route to the clinic, try not to let the dog paw at its face. The dog could break off quills and make extraction more difficult.

And do not count on your pup learning its lesson. Some do, but many do not.

SNAKES

Of all the plagues that can befall hunting dogs, snakes scare me the most. True, virtually every dog I know that has been bit by a rattler (including mine) survived, but it’s not a fun experience—for the dog or for the owner.

The best way to avoid getting a dog snake bit is to avoid the places snakes live. Unlike skunks and porcupines, which can be almost anywhere, rattlesnakes, at least in the West, typically live on rocky, south- and west-facing hillsides—but not always.

If your dog gets bitten, take the animal to a vet. Some vets recommend applying a loose tourniquet above the wound; others recommend giving the dog antihistamines (Benadryl). My discussions with several vets on the subject do not give me much faith in the cut-and-suck or applied-ice treatments. Instead, the conservative approach is to limit your dog’s movement (to keep it from circulating the venom), and get it to a vet as quickly as possible.

But that calls for advance preparation on your part. It is not practical to carry antivenom in your truck—it is very expensive and must be kept on ice—but you can carry a list of local vets you can call on a moment’s notice, which is particularly important if you are hunting in an unfamiliar area. As soon as you get to your truck and/or phone, call your vet and let him know you are coming in. The vet will take it from there. If you get to the vet quickly, most dogs seem to pull through without lasting damage.

Avoiding these scourges completely is probably impossible. But, with just a little preparation, diminishing the damage they inflict on your dog—not to mention your heart rate—becomes much easier.

Article by Dave Carty – From DU Magazine

Article Source: Ducks Unlimited Inc.

Ducks Unlimited conserves, restores and manages wetlands and associated habitats for North America‘s waterfowl. These habitats also benefit other wildlife and people. Visit their web site at www.ducks.org to learn more, support their mission or to find more info.

Retriever Training: Common Problems, Practical Solutions for Serious Hunting Mistakes

Bad scenario number one: Your retriever runs to the mark, but halfway back to you, spits out the bird to devote attention to something else. Two: In the field, the dog won’t return when you call, although it minds flawlessly at home. Three: The dog breaks at the sound of the shot, dives out of the blind, and for good measure, wrecks the decoy layout while swimming through it.

Reality check: These are problems to be dealt with by every trainer—pro and amateur alike—and they may occur over and over again.

If there is one constant in dog training, it’s that there are no quick fixes for any chronic problem—shock collars notwithstanding. There is no trainer alive who has not run into a wall at some point in his or her career. Verily, while the sheer number of problems is as numerous as stars unto the heavens, most of them fall under four general categories.

Each category presents a dilemma, and an opportunity for a sober reassessment: Are the problems due to a glitch in your training? If so, you will need to get through the situation at hand, then work on a long-term solution.

Texan Jeff Henard of High Praise Retrievers has suggestions for both. Henard is equally versed in the ups and downs of repairing canine behavior.

Problem 1: The dog refuses to complete a retrieve.

“During an exciting situation, the dog’s true habits are going to come out, good or bad,” Henard says. “My wife is an eighth-grade math teacher, and in a lot of ways, training dogs is like teaching math to kids: You have to teach them to add and subtract before you can teach them to multiply and divide.

“So, if the dog refuses to retrieve, I go out there and first try to get the dog to pick up the bird. If that doesn’t work, I’ll put the bird in the dog’s mouth and make him hold it. You have to try to get the dog to be successful, and your commands have to show the dog in black and white—this is right, this is wrong.”

Once back home, Henard says, the dog is re-schooled through a fetching regimen that forces it to retrieve in exciting situations—while guns are going off, duck calls are being blown, and so on. Eventually, he says, the dog will show him that it understands what it is being asked to do—regardless of distractions.

Problem 2: Your dog won’t return when you call.

Henard suggests nipping this one in the bud. “In this situation, I calmly herd up the dog and put him in his box,” he says. “Then, if there is a break for lunch, or later that afternoon, I will take him out and have an obedience session with him on a check cord or with a shock collar. He has to show me he knows what ‘here’ means.”

And at home? You’ve got it—he drills the dog in returning on the whistle over and over again. “We teach dogs book smarts in the yard,” Henard says. “But they have to learn street smarts in the field.”

Problem 3: Your dog breaks at the shot.

If your dog has spent the off season “sitting on the couch eating Scooby snacks,” as Henard likes to say, it’s almost a foregone conclusion that, for the first day or two of the season, the dog will break when it hears a shot. Here, Henard believes an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and recommends steadying practice before the season begins—“to get the dog back in the mindset of working and retrieving birds.”

Dogs still break, however, and for these infractions, Henard recommends an on-the-spot refresher course. “If there’s not a lot of birds flying around, we’ll have a little training session,” he says. “We’ll take a bird and throw it, and have someone else fire a shot. If the dog breaks, we correct him.

“ Hunting,” Henard says, “is controlled chaos. Typically, when dogs do things wrong, it’s because they haven’t been trained to do them right.”

Problem 4: Your dog won’t quarter to the gun.

In the uplands, a retriever that stays within range is a must. Unfortunately, that’s not always what happens. “One of the big mistakes people make with Labs is not putting any scent out or not running the dog in thick cover,” Henard says. “You turn a Lab out where there’s no scent and no cover and you’ve got a track meet.”

If one of Henard’s dogs takes off and flushes birds out of range, he first tries bringing it to heel until the dog settles down. If that fails, he puts the dog up. Henard believes that bad behavior is self-reinforcing.

Later, Henard will retrain the dog in quartering. He’ll zigzag through a field, planting birds at visual reference points—a tree, fence line, whatever. That way, the dog learns to run from one visual reference to the next, expecting game. As the dog’s training progresses, Henard uses fewer birds until the dog is quartering naturally before him.

There they are—a list of the biggies. If you have not yet run up against one of them, take a deep breath, for you most certainly will. But with patience and persistence, these problems nearly always can be solved.

Article by Dave Carty – From DU Magazine

Article Source: Ducks Unlimited Inc.

Ducks Unlimited conserves, restores and manages wetlands and associated habitats for North America‘s waterfowl. These habitats also benefit other wildlife and people. Visit their web site at www.ducks.org to learn more, support their mission or to find more info.

Each and every one of us has gone through at least one experience that included a dog. Whether sad or fortunate, these experiences exist and cannot be ignored. As every other marking moment emotions triggered by a dog at some point influent our ways from that moment on.

Just for fun I want to show you what I mean by giving a rather unknown example to prove my point.

Let’s say you are middle aged person like me who tried already every diet in the world to loose a few ponds. And naturally, nothing worked. Well, one evening, rainy evening of course, you come across a little fluffy puppy abandoned just next to the stairs in front of your apartment house. You don’t necessarily plan to adopt or buy dog, but this one seems different and so alone, maybe even a little sick, that you feel pity (you think) for little fellow and take him in… just for the night. And then you keep him another night, and another one till he officially becomes your pet – you can’t deny it anymore. You walk him every day at fixed hours and, although you forgot all about your weight problem being too busy petting the little pet, you amazingly reached undreamed results in that particular problem. Surprised?

You shouldn’t be, it’s known (by some at least) that regular daily 20 – 30 minutes walks are the best exercise of all and the best support for your diet and healthy lifestyle. If you try them on your own, you might get bored and give up. But with a dog, the little walks are a must, they have to be done, they are fun and soon you can’t miss any of them.

So, the little innocent fluffy puppy not only made you a better person since you let him into your house (and heart), but also solved the problem you had that all your determination and lost money on diet products couldn’t solve.

If this story from my own experience wasn’t convincing enough, just try it. Get a dog. And miraculously you will be a different person. I know I am now.

Healthy living includes being active, feeling good about yourself and eating properly. Road to GOOD Health is a very INDIVIDUAL one. Willingness to keep looking until you find something that works for you is very important, because what works for one person may be a complete turnoff for another. Once you’ve discovered what suits you, it doesn’t take long to develop a passion for it. It doesn’t take much to start living a healthier life.

Article Source: Romwell Health Pages

The hounds are the most common category of hunting dogs. They are in reality divided into two classes or sub-categories: the sighthound and the scent hound. As their names imply, each sub-category of dog type refers to a certain skill that the dog tends to be more skilful in.

Sighthounds, suchlike the Whippet, are adapted to hunting because of their high visual acumen. They apply a technique that is recognised as coursing, referring to the notion of spotting the prey from a farseeing and following it in a immediate pursuit.

Scent hounds, similar to the Coonhound, work by scent rather than sight. They incline to pick up on a tracing of the prey from the ground and pursue that scent, hopefully to the target. Scent hounds frequently work in packs and are considered as owning some of the most sensible noses of all other dog types.

The next popular group of dogs used for hunting are the Gun dogs. Gun dogs are used largely by short range hunters using shotguns. Their names are reflecting the particular skill they have to offer to the hunter. There are three popular sub-categories of gun dogs:

1. The Flushing Spaniels,

2. The Pointers and

3. The Retrievers.

The Flushing Spaniels, such as the English Cocker spaniel, are utilized to locate and spring the prey for the hunter. They are aimed to stay close to the huntsman, assuring an easy hunting.

The Pointers, such as an English Setter, tend to “point out” the prey by pointing at upland birds or other upland animals being hunted. They also some of the times help to flush the prey out from their hiding spot.

The Retrievers, at one time known as Water Spaniels, are great dogs for finding and capturing shot or killed game for the hunter. For example, if the huntsman kills a bird, the retriever heads over to pick it up and brings it back to the hunter.

Another popular type of hunting dogs are the terriers. They are used to hunt mammals, for the most part. Terriers, such as the Lakeland Terrier, are used to locate the actual hideout of the animal and spring or capture the animal. Some terriers are bred to kill the animal at the animal’s den. A large number of terriers are used to hunt what are known as “pest species”. The pest species refer to groundhogs, hunted by the Jack Russel Terriers, or the badger or fox, hunted by the Fell Terrier. The rules, regulations and legality of some of these huntings are in question, so you should check with your local authorities before you arrange your hunting trip.

Regardles of their type and special skills they may have, hunting dogs are still very popular option for hunting. Whether you select a sighthound, scenthound, gun dog or terrier, you can be confident that your fellow hound will be working very hard for you at discovering your prey. Using a hunting dog can not only provide great companionship, but it can bring prey right to your footstep and literally take the hunt out of hunting. They not only make a vigorous hunting companion, they also make excellent domestic animals.

Article Source: Romwell Travel Advisory – Hunting Guide

Related Links: Hunting Dogs – Puppy Selection Part 1 and Hunting Dogs – Puppy Selection Part 2

The Process

A well-rounded hunter retriever is best developed when provided a balanced diet, not only in the food he consumes, but also in the training experiences he encounters. The art of retriever training includes striking a productive, logical, progressive balance in a dog’s training regiment. Dwelling exclusively on just one skill for extended periods can diminish other previously established skills. Furthermore, this oversight will likely result in a bored dog displaying lackadaisical performance. Successful training methodology involves balance in its structure.

First, let’s review a few of the previously established basic truths about dog training methodology.

• Dogs learn best through causal relationships established through consistent repetition (the learning chain–parts of the whole).
• Dogs have better retention through positive reinforcement, not force.
• Training should enhance/complement natural ability, not disguise it.
• Training is teaching, not testing. Dogs don’t learn from failure.
• Dogs do learn through group dynamics.
• Training involves 4 phases: yard, field, transitional, hunting.

These assumptions have been established in many of our Wildrose Training articles. Now let’s add balance in training structure.

• Training is not a program, it is a process.
• Dogs learn best when instruction is cyclical.
• Training sessions should involve both primary and counter skills.

Training as a Process

To establish balance in training a retriever, one should not subscribe to a mindset of a “training program.” Successful retriever training methodology is best described as a process, not a program. Programs are straight continuums with a beginning and an end. Far too often this “training program” is universally applied to all dogs, despite the dog’s maturity, aptitude, ability, or progression. Programs move from step to step, seldom re-visiting previously established skills. Processes, on the other hand, are never-ending cycles of planning, teaching, re-visiting established skills, and evaluation. The assessment phase provides direction for the next training session.

Daily evaluation causes the trainer to assess results, scrutinize methodology (is it working?), clarify desirable outcomes, assess the dog’s attitude and as a result, modify training methods accordingly. The training process must remain flexible based on the individual dog’s needs and abilities. No “fixed regiment” or off-the-shelf, canned training program can replace a logical training process customized to fit your individual dog. In dog training, one size does not fit all.

When training your dog, remember to:

1. Evaluate your dog daily and periodically throughout the training session. Ask yourself these questions:

Is the learning progressing?
Are the methods working?
How is the dog’s attitude?

2. Re-visit previously established skills continuously. Keep core skills entrenched. Avoid, “Okay, that’s it for obedience, you got it, ole boy. Now it’s on to marking.” You can never stop reinforcing previously conditioned skills.

Article Source: Ducks Unlimited Inc.

Ducks Unlimited conserves, restores and manages wetlands and associated habitats for North America‘s waterfowl. These habitats also benefit other wildlife and people. Visit their web site at www.ducks.org to learn more, support their mission or to find more info.

“This Is What You Must Do, Starting Today, If You Want Your Dog To Live…”

If you want to save your dog from the horrific death suffered by hundreds of other dogs in your local area, probably in the last year alone, then you MUST follow these 3 steps:

Step 1 – Stop using commercial dog food as your dog’s only or main source of food. This step is the most important and you should make the change in the next couple of days.

But you can’t make this change unless you have a good alternative plan in place.

I can show you a proven alternative plan, it’s much easier than you think and much cheaper than you’re spending now. I’ll get to that very soon.

Step 2 – Learn how to read commercial dog food labels.

I understand it’s not practical for most people to never use commercial dog food ever again.

Although not best case, you can use it sparingly for maybe a few meals during the week. (If this is you, you need to hear about The Confidential Dog Food Report… and order Dog Food SECRETS™ )

The Grocery Manufacturers of America, the National Food Processors Association, and the Pet Food Institute join together and fight the FDA to keep the terms used as confusing and misleading as possible.

I learned how to decipher their deliberate ‘double-talk’ and I’ll show you how to understand it too…again, that’s coming soon.

Step 3 – Get some healthy, well-balanced dog food recipes and start feeding your dog home made food. I have a huge collection I’m happy to share with you.

It’s very easy, if you know how to cook specifically for dogs. Just cook a large batch, freeze it and it can be eaten over several days.

But be sure you have a good source of recipes written especially for dogs because they have very specific requirements, different to humans.

It’s possible to love your dog to death with too much of the wrong foods.

Author and veterinary doctor, John M. Simon, says overweight dogs are…

“at increased risk for musculoskeletal, cardiovascular, gastrointestinal, endocrine, respiratory, immune and reproductive disorders, including cancer.”

You can learn how to easily complete each of those 3 steps and much more, just order Dog Food SECRETS™, one-of-a-kind, step-by-step survival guide that makes your dog live a longer,

Puppy mill puppies are not sold only in pet stores, you can find them all over the internet, newspaper ads and even through your local farm market. They will sell puppies to anyone with the money to pay for them. By purchasing a puppy from a pet store or from the source you didn’t research properly it is very likely that you are supporting inhumane practices of puppy mills.

If for any reason you decide to take your chance and buy your puppy through a pet store, please be careful. There are many things you must watch for before you decide to buy a puppy from a pet store. Many pet stores offer a health guarantee. Find out everything you can about that guarantee before your purchase.

Questions to Ask About Pet-Shop Guarantee

• Does the guarantee cover ALL medical expenses, regardless of the cost?
• If all medical expenses are not paid, which part is covered with the guarantee?
• Will they let you use your own vet or the pet store only let you use their vet?
• What if you are not satisfied with the vet they suggested, will they cover the cost of a vet of your choice?
• Who will be responsible for the veterinary costs if a puppy is afflicted with a heritable disease which may not manifest itself until later in life?
• If your puppy get sick, and their policy require you to get another puppy, what if the second puppy also get sick? Will they refund your purchase price?
• In case your puppy suffers from hip displaysia year or two years after your purchase, will they cover the cost of the surgery?

Will they refund you the price of the puppy — or will they require you to bring the puppy back to them for a new puppy? You Deserve to Know the Truth – Get FREE Puppy Report from http://www.PetShopPuppies.org a non-profit organization, and a federal 501c3 charity with objective to bring awareness to the public about the nature of the commercial dog breeding industry so you can make informed and educated decisions about your next puppy purchase.

Watch the videos:

• Stop Puppy Mills Video
• Adopt a Shelter Dog & Save a Life
• Dog Auctions